One Man Walking

2008-06-24 A bus-load of friends

June 24th, 2008 · 4 Comments

The storm hit early this morning and when two pegs got blown out at 6am my tent collapsed and I figured it was time to leave. The weather improved enough to stow the umbrella and a few hours later I was at Osorezan. On the way I’d been offered a lift by a friendly Japanese couple who turned out to be guides at the temple complex. I showed myself around, recalling what Alan Booth had written about this place. I think he said it was a place where the spirits of children that died during birth come. It’s another volcanic land of steaming rocks and sulfurous rivers. The piles of rocks are said to have been made by those spirits and many are adorned by colourful pinwheels from families who have suffered a loss.

Bridge beside the lake at Osorezan 

Back in the car park I was drying my tent and sleeping bag as a group of old ladies came by, one dared to ask and soon news was spreading about me and my adventure. I could hear them passing it on “He came from Kyushu” they’d say, “walking” and “to Soya”. Quite a few people came to confirm the story themselves and wish me good luck. I wish I could have got it on camera but I know they’d have shied away or just smiled and waved instead of carrying on talking.
Small shrine above Osorezan 

Pinwheels at the shrine    Osorezan

As the tour bus left I got waves from everyone and felt pretty good for the walk to the northern shore. Near the end of the road a car drove south past me, and a little while later it came back tooting its horn. The lady inside said she was Japanese though I’d have also believed native american, especially with flawless english, her Boston accent and braided hair. She offered me a ride but I had to decline,
“I’m trying to do the whole country on foot”
“Well you must have big feet then!”

So I made it to the coast and found a windy but soft campsite. 31km of Honshu left.

Word of the day: ka-zan = volcano

Distance today: 42 km

hiking  ·  movie  ·  photo  ·  shrine

4 responses so far ↓

  • 1 Eric // Jun 26, 2008 at 5:59 am

    Keep it up Craig! Loving the photos and videos..

    ["You may remember my post last year about Craig, my crazy New Zealander cousin and his trek up the Pacific Coast Trail last year...."]

  • 2 Johan // Jun 26, 2008 at 5:01 pm

    The pin-wheel photos are amazing.
    Did a little research on pinwheels on grave sites “The continual movement suggests constancy, perhaps of affection. The wind which propels the tiny mills evokes the spirit”

  • 3 Nivi // Jun 27, 2008 at 1:12 pm

    Craig I read your posts and look at your pics but I still can’t quite believe this is for real!

    Hope all is well, thinking of you.

  • 4 Caitlin // Jun 29, 2008 at 1:52 pm

    hello from belize!

    my tent stakes blew out two nights ago also…BAD TIMES. it was in the middle of some tropical torrential downpour at 2:30am and one side of the rainbow collapsed and fell on my while i was sleeping, drenching me, my sleeping bag and my clothes. then i had to fight my way out of the tent and run in just my underwear across a meadow-turned-lake to get to the local community center where i could get inside out of the rain. it was quite an adventure. you would have laughed.

    i got to pet a jaguar a few days ago, and yesterday i held a baby armadillo and hung out with some howler monkeys. life is looking up. it’s good to be away from home – things were pretty much shit-terrible back in california. but now i’m in tropical paradise, with the crazy animals and bugs and weather. i miss the PCT so much though…using all my old gear brings back so many memories.

    okay, i’ll stop rambling. i just miss talking to people who actually know me, so you get to be the recipient of this lengthy message. hope japan is going swimmingly!

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