It was the kind of day when you could get sunburned without knowing. The clouds blocked out enough sun to dampen shadows so I couldn’t navigate from them but my solar chargers were glowing so unless I wanted my ears to too I would need a hat.

I sat on the deck for a while, waiting for Kawaguchi-san and Taka to return from fetching a goat (Taka’s new lawn-mower) but by 10am I felt I had to move on. I left them a note and headed north along the coast, sticking to route 269 almost the whole day, which isn’t as exciting as it sounds. I asked for drinking water at a petrol station and explained myself as best I could. While I filled my bottles each customer got the story from the attendant. I didn’t understand most of what he said but I could pick out “walking”, “Cape Soya” and, as I passed out of earshot, “New Zealand”.
 
I have come back into the hills a little bit to camp near Kanoya Rose Garden. Though I could have been sneaky I fronted up and asked at the info booth. A lady with great English skills took me to the supervisor and arranged permission so now I am looking forward to my first night in my new tent. There is a plane doing maneuvers overhead, swooping and banking as best a large military transport can. I hope it stops before dark.

Word of the day: doshite = why?